Hello Fellow Food Birds,

As promised, here is my list of restaurants, cafés, bars, and sweet spots from my most recent trip to Seoul. Most of these places were either personally introduced to me by friends or discovered as I carved out a rhythm and routine for myself while moving through the city.

As I write this entry, I can vividly recall everything I tried — the flavors, colors, textures, and even the temperatures. Like every other part of my journey, I loved experiencing the specialties of each café, bar, and restaurant, slowly learning more about Korean cuisine and what contemporary Koreans gravitate toward when it comes to food and drink.

There is still so much more for me to learn, but I’d say this little list is a very good start. Hopefully, your tummy will love these spots just as much whenever you make your visit.

Traditional Korean / Comfort Classics

Somni
Traditional, homestyle Korean food (bibimbap, doenjang jjigae, banchan sets). Hyundai Department Store Apgujeong Main Branch, 5F, 429 Apgujeong-dong, Gangnam-gu.
If you enjoy people-watching while eating authentic food and soaking up the everyday rituals around you, this is the place for you.

Samwon Garden, @samwonbysg
Traditional Korean cuisine. 623-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu.
Samwon Garden evokes the kind of traditional restaurant—and event space—reserved for special occasions and celebrations, with decadent presentations of Korean favorites. The property itself is beautiful, the kind of classic place you imagine returning to time and time again, marking moments both big and small.

Parc Seoul, @parcseoul
Cozy Korean food restaurant. 743-1 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu.
Let’s just say this favorite among my local and international friends may as well be my personal canteen. Catch me there multiple times, guiltlessly enjoying the kimchi fried rice.

Noodles / Dumplings

Myeongdong Kyoja Itaewon
Kalguksu (hand-cut noodle soup), dumplings. 34-149 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. (136 Noksapyeong-daero)
While a favorite in my group chats, this noodle-and-dumpling staple is frequented by multigenerational locals who clearly take joy in their meals. We sat next to a family of cousins, including a spicy toddler and a bright elementary-schooler who happily practiced her English with me.

Myeon Seoul, @myeonseoul
Noodles made with clean, additive-free ingredients. 805 Seolleung-ro, Gangnam District, Seoul.
Founded by Chef Kim Do-yun, known for his appearances on Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars, this noodle haven takes its craft seriously. The dishes seduce the palate, and it’s a treat to watch the chefs prepare noodles directly in the dining room. The care they pour into the dough is unmistakable—a clear signal that your stomach is in for a treat.

Korean BBQ

Geumdwaeji Sikdang (Gold Pig Restaurant), @gold_pig1982
Korean BBQ. 370-69 Sindang-dong, Jung-gu.
Known for serving prime pork cuts, this beloved K-BBQ institution does not miss. Follow the chefs’ recommendations all the way through to the kimchi jjigae with ramyeon—it’s part of the experience.

Chowon Dosandaero, @chowon.dosandaero
Korean BBQ. 62-3 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu.
I met my friends here after my own dinner at Gold Pig. They had just finished competing in Hyrox and were devouring their selection of beef and traditional delicacies. There were seconds and thirds, and their earlier physical effort was clearly well rewarded.

Cafés / Bakery / Sweet Stops

Conte de Tulear, @contedetulear
Café, restaurant, retail experience. 646-21 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu.
One day I’ll open a physical Tamu Café and retail space, and concepts like Conte de Tulear feel like master classes in building a comforting, appealing menu alongside a product range for those who want to bring a piece of the universe home with them.

Lowide Coffee, @lowidecoffee
Café, dessert. 574-1 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu.
Perfect for meeting friends and sharing daily specials.

붕어빵 (Bungeoppang)
Seasonal street snack. Cafe Anna, 50-3 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu.
A nostalgic, comforting bite I picked up at a local convenience store in Hannam, though my girlfriend swears by Cafe Anna if you’re looking for a dedicated stop.

Paris Croissant, @pariscroissant_kr
Bakery, café, brunch, dessert. 273-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu.
In the neighborhood where I stayed, this café became my morning ritual after runs along the Han River. It serves incredibly rich French pastries alongside traditional Korean breads like danpat-ppang (단팥빵), filled with smooth or chunky red bean paste. Everything is delicious—though fair warning, there’s no non-dairy milk.

Bars / Nightlife / Late-Night Energy

Process Complex, @process.itw
Entertainment and community complex. 42 Usadan-ro, Yongsan-gu.
Featuring Bar La Fine Bouche (Paris meets Seoul), Paran Jibung Highball KBBQ, Grain Haus (nightclub), and Ikovox Coffee. I spent five hours moving seamlessly from aperitivo, to dinner, to a late-night work call in a private room—possibly becoming the ultimate client for my friend who invested in the venture.

Mini Bar Hannam, @minibar_hannam
Cocktail bar. Itaewon-ro 54-gil 58-7.
No reservations, just word of mouth and a connection to its iconic owner. Once inside, you never want to leave the plush red walls. Funny enough, I’ve never had much to drink here—my friends confirm the cocktails are excellent—but the atmosphere alone is intoxicating, and the microwavable popcorn by the bowl doesn’t hurt.

Kiez Seoul, @kiez_seoul
Cocktail bar. 84-24 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu.
Kiez is the kind of place you go for a date with your girlfriends to catch up on everything while taking in a gorgeously curated space and an easy, unforced atmosphere. Despite being lively, it somehow feels intimate, as groups gather while giving the impression that they’re tucked away in their own private rooms. Maybe it’s the lighting or the living-room–style central space anchored by a covetable sound system, but whatever it is, it works. Don’t skip the curry rice.

Zest, @zest.seoul
Cocktail bar. 88-1 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu.
I’ve never experienced cocktail tasting quite like this. I usually stick to a single drink and never mix different liquors, but Zest makes it nearly impossible not to explore. Ranked among the World’s 50 Best Bars in 2025, each cocktail feels like an exercise in molecular precision, inviting you to indulge across the menu.

Soko Bar, @soko_bar
Cocktail bar. 31-13 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu.
Everything at Soko delights—the decor details, the cocktail menu, and even the fellow patrons, with whom you’ll inevitably exchange a few pleasantries.

International / Casual Dining

Manao Thai Restaurant, @manao_seoul
Artisanal Thai cuisine. 657-85 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu.
All-around delicious when you want a break from back-to-back, meat-heavy K-BBQ meals.

Now that I’ve taken care of your tummy, stay tuned for the next installment of Seoul Intentions, where I’ll be sharing how I stayed fit during my time in the city.

See you very soon,
Tamu

As I scroll through Instagram — taking in my community’s travel recaps from 2025, along with the pieces their loved ones surprised them with over the holidays — I can’t think of a better moment to share Part 2 of my Seoul shopping list with you.

As I mentioned in Part 1, this entry focuses on newer discoveries — shops I visited on my most recent trip and brands I’m excited to continue collecting from as they release new seasons and expand globally. If you’re heading to Seoul in 2026, promise me you’ll add these stops to your itinerary. And if not, consider this an invitation to browse their Instagram feeds and catch a glimpse of what drew me in IRL.

In the meantime, I’m happy to say I’ve been reaching for the pieces I picked up back in October and November on repeat — small reminders of a city I can’t wait to return to in the new year.

Now, where did we leave off? Oh yes — we were headed deeper into Hannam.

📍 HANNAM / YONGSAN AREA

LLege (Loud Living Empowers Generations Everyday)
@llege_official
14, Hannam-Daero 40-gil, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul, South Korea

Opened at the end of October, LLege — Recto’s little sister — offers a vibey, nostalgic nod to youth culture, with collegiate classics that span multiple generations. The space is filled with charming relics from the ’80s: cassette players, vintage telephones, and cheeky, candy-colored bikini-clad models captured in old photographs. It’s playful and retro, and after a launch party featuring Peggy Gou on the decks, a taco truck, and a leisurely visit from Rosé of BLACKPINK, it’s bound to become a Hannam mainstay.

Tony Wack
@tonywack_official
16 Hannam-Daero 46-gil, Yongsan District, Seoul, South Korea

I walked into Tony Wack because I wanted to recreate their minimal stereo room storefront in a future home — the interiors alone were worth the stop. Once inside, I fell for the brand’s mix of tailored and casual pieces: sharp coats and blazers, great shirts, leather bombers, wide-leg trousers, and denim with just the right attitude. Everything feels effortlessly cool — pieces you can throw on and instantly feel put together.

MAISON EENK
@eenk_official
3 4F, 43 Jangmun-ro, Yongsan District, Seoul, South Korea

I bumped into a friend who’d purchased the FW25 EENK fringe shawl jacket the day before, and seeing her in it was all the influence I needed to head straight to the brand’s flagship and make it my own. I was introduced to EENK on my first trip to Seoul, when my friend Niki Wu stopped by to shop and meet the owner. I couldn’t join her that day — I was shooting content — so this friendly reminder, delivered via my friend’s jacket, felt like the perfect sign to finally go.

I used the Naver Map app to guide me to Maison EENK, and the suggested route took me through the backstreets of Itaewon and the Yongsan District. It turned out to be one of the best walks I’ve taken in Seoul — giving me a glimpse into everyday neighborhood life, unfolding into a beautiful sunset, and ending with a closer look at the collection and what has since become one of my favorite jackets this season (and definitely beyond).

The bonus to the entire experience was the decadent lunch and dessert date I had with founder Hyemee Lee a few days later — she’s definitely my cup of tea.

📍 ITAEWON

Over Due Flair
@overdueflair
04404 16, Itaewon-ro 36-gil, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul, South Korea

Over Due Flair’s fringe-curtain entry caught my attention the moment I walked past. Brushing through, my eyes immediately locked onto the candle-lined center table. After slipping on a gauzy faux-fur–collared top in the dressing room, that’s when I noticed the marble cube I mentioned earlier — sitting quietly in the corner on the floor. There wasn’t any further debate; the top had already found its place in my closet. Moments like this are why I shop the way I do — following what pulls me in and trusting the thrill of discovery.

Mused
@mused_official
1F, 9 Itaewonro 55ga gil, Youngsan-Gu, Seoul, South Korea

A crochet frill–collar rugby in the window at Mused stopped me instantly — the kind of piece that makes you pause and take a second look. I ended up leaving with two crocheted handbags instead, but that first moment pulled me right in. Inside, a sculptural staircase divides the space into a sort of stage and platea, setting the tone for the entire experience. It mirrors the brand’s philosophy of finding unfamiliar beauty and uncovering fresh perspective by looking a little deeper at the everyday.

📍 SEONGSU

Gentle Monster Haus Nowhere Seoul
@hausnowhere
433, Ttukseom-ro, Seongdong-Gu, Seoul

I missed the opening of Haus Nowhere Seoul by a few weeks, and the celebrity rollout event — followed by a full influencer takeover — had my interest running on full octane. A visit to this out-of-this-world project shot straight to the top of my list; the experience is so avant-garde it almost feels unreal. Promise me you’ll go — it’s an absolute must. And reserve the tea room ahead of time. My wait time was 100 minutes, though it varies, so plan accordingly.

Musina Empty Seongsu
@empty.seoul.kr
97 Seongsui-ro, Seongdong-Gu, Seoul, South Korea

I walked into Musinsa Empty Seongsu looking for a powder-blue flower appliqué bonnet by Florentina Leitner and ended up getting my first real taste of the platform’s in-store universe. The space is more than a store — it operates as an art project, a conceptual environment designed to spotlight the fresh energy of experimental and emerging designer brands. Alongside its roster of Korean creatives, you’ll also find a thoughtful edit of international labels, all living together in a space that feels both curated and ever-changing. It’s one of those places where you go in for one thing and walk out with a whole new list of brands you want to start collecting.

CEJ
@cej.official
114, Yeonmujang-gil, Seongdong-Gu, Seoul, South Korea

CEJ caught my eye thanks to the trendy styling in its window display. I was actually on the hunt for something in animal print for a birthday gathering later that night. Interestingly, there wasn’t a cheetah, zebra, or snake print in sight — but a perfect tiered lace dress caught my attention instead. It’s turned out to be one of my most complimented pieces of the season.

I hope you’re as charmed as I am by this steadily growing list of Seoul shopping hits. Who knows — maybe I’ll even bump into you in the dressing room of one of these gems. I sure hope so.

Next up, I’ll be sharing some of my favorite places to eat in Seoul. And who knows — maybe we’ll even end up enjoying a meal there together, too.

See you next entry.

Korean retail concepts are the epitome of holistic immersion — they pull you in with genius creativity and a kind of aesthetic geekiness that feels both intentional and joyful. Every corner, shelf, nook, and hidden cranny is conceived to touch you on some level of pleasure.

I like to believe the visual merchandisers or shop staff get genuine delight from placing a tiny marble cube on the floor of a dressing room — out of sight at first, but perfectly positioned for that moment of surprise discovery. The word cute slips off your tongue, floats in the air, and lands softly as a smile.

And trust me, you will smile once you start trying things on. The sales associates are next-level attentive, and the entire experience is designed to ensure you fall truly in love with your piece — guaranteeing that quick Apple Pay double-click and the sweet QR scan at duty free.

While I’d love to offer you a comprehensive, meticulously curated list assembled through marathon shopping sessions, that’s simply not who I am as a traveler. I meander. I wander. I leave linear itineraries to the other fabulous creators. When I do shop, I gravitate toward the classics you’ll see on everyone’s lists, but also to places that pull me in because of an interior detail, something I catch in the window, or a stylish shopper who catches my eye.

Remember: one of the reasons I fell in love with Seoul was because of the style in K-dramas. Off-screen, Koreans serve just as hard — their unmistakable sense of proportion, their quiet confidence, their effortless presence. I could sit and people-watch in Gangnam, Hannam or Seongsu all day.

For now, let’s wander through my Gangnam/Apgujeong musts.

📍 GANGNAM / APGUJEONG

MAISON KIMHĒKIM
@maison_kimhekim
17-4 Dosan-daero 75-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea

I first discovered Maison Kimhēkim around 2017, when the brand was spotlighted as an emerging label to watch on Matches. I immediately fell for how founder and designer Kiminte Kimhēkim weaves his house codes — hearts, bows, and those iconic pearls — into conceptual delights rooted in the elevated craftsmanship he honed under Parisian couturiers.

I’ve attended a few seasons of his runway shows in Paris, each one a testament to his precise yet romantic vision. This past trip to Seoul, I had the pleasure of visiting his exquisite Flagship in Gangnam. Every moment within the Maison Kimhēkim universe is filled with rich, intentional, and incredibly thoughtful details.

Noice
@official_noice
2F, 30, Eonju-ro 268 gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, South Korea

I’m not going to lie, the face of Noice — my heart-throb of heart-throbs, Park Seo-Jun — drew me to the brand like a bee to honey. Noice expands on its signatures each season, refining everything from foundational wardrobe pieces to sharply tailored denim and leather. Each season, the brand riffs on new inspirations — from nods to iconic bands like Oasis to collaborations with prolific creatives such as Verdy.

Ader Error
@ader_error
31 Dosan-daero 11-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, South Korea

Ader Error has quickly become a staple brand for both my son and me. What started with the first classic long sleeve and graphic tees I picked up on my initial visit has evolved into a small obsession: seasonal graphic editions, tailored jackets with a twist, and Significant, the sub-brand’s core knitwear line. I’ve also grown very fond of their denim. And, as you can see here, the retail experience itself is incredibly engaging — playful, immersive, and distinctly Ader.

Boon The Shop
@boontheshop_official
21, Apgujeong-ro 60-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, South Korea

Boon the Shop is more than a store — it’s a cultural destination, part gallery, part fashion temple. The space itself is sleek and architectural, carrying that distinctly Seoul energy. Inside, you’ll find a sharply curated mix of exclusive pieces, limited editions, and standout collections from rising Korean designers alongside the most sought-after international houses. It’s a must-visit for anyone who loves discovering high-end fashion in an environment ripe for deep appreciation.

📍 HANNAM / YONGSAN AREA

Recto
@recto_official
8, Hannam-Daero 40-Gil, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul, South Korea

Recto first popped onto my radar via social media thanks to its signature wavy neckline and stacked-belt trousers. As I dug deeper into the brand’s world, my admiration for their vision solidified into what has become a steady fascination over the past few years. Their flagship space feels like the perfect culmination of the taste, style, and direction of founder Ji Yeon Jung and creative director Paik Suk Chung. From the modern entryway to the sleek interiors that wrap around an internal garden, it’s yet another example of the kind of gorgeous Korean curation I can never get enough of.

Let’s call these shops my first favorites — the ones I discovered early on and happily return to each time I’m back in Seoul. But I’m just as excited about the new spaces I found on my last trip, and I can’t wait to share them with you in Part 2. See you very soon!

When escapism turns into productive pathways for transformation.

Living — life — is intensely and complexly beautiful. I’ve said it before: the cosmic push, pull, collisions, and realities born therefrom that shape our experiences, fates, and destinies are interconnected on frequencies most of us here on earth can’t fully grasp — and maybe the mystery is the point. We can only believe, have faith, and flow expansively forward with the universe. So as I personally work on identifying and reconciling the puzzle of myself — old issues, repeat offenses, nagging and negative behavior patterns contrasted with my biggest strengths — I find comfort in environments that sustain me in the complexity of my being. That’s Seoul right now.

My appreciation for Korean culture and the city of Seoul was born during the pandemic, when I fell in love with K-dramas. The King’s Affection was my entrée into the popular genre. Locked away in my home, I had watched Bridgerton no less than five times and was searching for something new to ease my anxiety as the devastating virus plagued Italy’s most vulnerable. The historic drama, staged during the Joseon era, piqued my interest with its “love conquers all” storyline. Over time, I rewatched the series — again — around five times and eased into a pipeline of seriously satisfying programs. I began binging these shows regularly, amassing undereye bags faster than my FYP cycles through micro-trends.

As with most historical dramas, the scenography and costumes drew me in. But when I moved on to contemporary stories, it was still very much the fashion — watch Mine, Glory or Do Do Sol Sol La La Sol… IYKYK. Equally satisfying is the way food takes center stage in nearly every series. As a Jamaican who lives in Italy, Korea’s enthusiasm for its cuisine resonates deeply with my tummy.

Two Korean emotional sentiments also stood out to me: jeong and the concept of skinship. Jeong describes a familiarity unique to Koreans, where love and affection run deep. Skinship refers to nonsexual physical affection and bonding through touch — hugging, holding hands, leaning in close, or simply sharing space. In a culture where courtship is long, thoughtful, and tender, every gesture matters; over time, with the slightest touch, affection and love are signed, sealed, and delivered. The hopeless romantic in me rushed in for this love language, sparking a keen interest in traveling to Korea to observe and experience all of the above IRL and in time.

It’s never too late to discover your happy place.

My friend Kimberly Blackwell once told me that it’s never too late to meet a person. I had lamented that meeting her after moving to Italy felt like such a loss — that it would have been incredible to know her when I lived in New York. I initially looked at my delayed travel to Korea from the same vantage point. Why hadn’t I gone sooner? As a street-style photographer, I had become acquainted with a number of Korean fashion editors who were as endearing and charming as they were stylish. I remember how they always insisted: “Come visit us in Korea, Tamu — we’ll take you out.” And Seoul Fashion Week had invited me season after season starting in 2012. But at the time, it felt impossible to make the trip. My son was very young, and being away from home for NY, London, and Paris fashion weeks was already an insane luxury.

And so, K-dramas became the inspiration that eventually placed Seoul on my horizon. After my first trip in May 2023, I found myself dreaming about a mini-sabbatical in Korea once my son started university — time for a deeper exploration of a city, a country, and a culture with which I felt a long-brewing connection.

My first entry into Seoul was a vacation with friends that coincided with a Gucci Cruise show. My second visit was for a dear friend’s wedding this past May. Both trips were magical; I was surrounded by the beautiful energy of friends, and the wedding itself was a dream. But there is something to be said about solo travel, especially when your intention is to assess where you are in your life at a given moment.

Fast forward to this past August, when we finally dropped my son off at university. I was officially an empty nester with the freedom to spend real time away from Milan. When I arrived in Seoul in October, the full-circle energy of my reality descended upon me like a rose-colored sunset. This was my Seoul timing — my destined moment to be present in this incredible city.

I enjoyed 13 days completely at my own pace. No rush — just the gestures of a tourist curious about living in a city fresh to her. One of the things I was most curious about from the dramas was how people actually live day to day in Seoul. When the drama ends, what does real life look like? How authentic are these portrayals?

My curiosity was richly nurtured when a close friend invited me to stay with her. It was lovely observing how she navigated her hectic life as a new media publisher. We were roomies, and it truly felt like a moment manifested.

With dreamy accommodations sorted (I moved to the Andaz Seoul after my roomie stay), I was completely free to explore — and to address the emotional laundry I wanted to air out. If I was late starting my day, no fuss. I snail-paced across the city, discovering one neighborhood at a time. I didn’t spiral when plans shifted; I simply circled back another day — perhaps when they were supposed to happen. I spent quality time with friends I’ve made along the way, and with friends of friends who spared precious hours to take me to lunch or walk me to appointments.

I confirmed that the table-pounding, air-punching, throw-your-head-back appreciation for kimchi-jjigae isn’t an embellishment in the dramas. Korean comfort food really does hit the soul that deep. Also very real are the seven-hour nights out with friends, where food is abundant, vibes infinite, love — platonic and romantic — floats in the air, and bottles have no bottoms.

짠 (cheers) to moments like these, which linger sweetly on your tongue. They create the perfect mental backdrop for returning to yourself — for introspection, for sitting peacefully with the discomforts that weigh you down and impede personal growth. And they open space to acknowledge your power and brilliance.

May we view escapism as a productive path toward relocating ourselves to safer mental and emotional ground — where we aren’t limited by the constraints of our everyday realities, where a happy mind and heart allow us to notice new avenues for resolution, and where we are free from the gaze of those who trigger emotions that cause us to falter on our journeys.

May you find your magic space, on your own time.

I also write about my Seoul love in All The Pretty Birds, Issue 11.

Where to stay:

Shilla Hotel Seoul, 249, Dongho-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul, 서울특별시 중구 동호로 249.

Andaz Seoul Gangnam, 854 Nonhyeon-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, 서울특별시 강남구 논현로 854. My Premium King room with city view was cozy, spacious and perfect for my seven day stay. The space includes a large bathroom with bath tub and walking shower and a separate toilet room.

Grand Hyatt Seoul , 322 Sowol-ro, Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu Seoul, 서울특별시 용산구 소월로 322.
Highly recommended by my friends in Seoul, the Grand Hyatt is on top of my “to stay” list. Conveniently located in Hannam Dong, across from Namsan park, it’s also walking distance to Itaewon. I heard it’s super classy!

Airbnb wishlist stays (great if traveling with friends):

A Hanok Reflecting Gentle Warmth — “Mirror Courtyard”
Tongin Market, South Korea
→ View on Airbnb

Peaceful Stay with Han River Views
Hannam-dong, Seoul
Itaewon and Banpo Han River Park are just a short walk away.
→ View on Airbnb

“Sawol Hanok” — A Private House for Complete Rest
Seongbuk-gu, Seoul
A serene hanok retreat tucked beneath the old castle wall.
→ View on Airbnb